On The Runway

London’s Burning – London Fashion Week

Spring/summer looks from (left to right): Burberry Prorsum, Christopher Kane, David Koma and Erdem

London fashion is underrated. For me, it’s where the creative magic happens – the city has become known for its fantastical digital printers while names such as Christopher Kane is following in the footsteps of counterparts McQueen and Galliano by leading fashion in a new direction. Here is my pick of some of the best shows from London Fashion Week.

1. Burberry Prorsum

Elegant 1940s silhouettes (including sweaters and full mid-calf skirts) were given a tribal beat with artisanal beading, patterns, crochet and weaving in African-inspired colours. The new trench comes as a purple dress or in dizzying black and gold stripes, while the military parka (thrown over a cocktail dress) is the new item to own.

2. Christopher Kane

Apparently Kane was inspired by girls living in Council Estates and their bedrooms, although there was nothing dark in his fragile collection. The beauty could be seen in the technical wizadry – colourful floral motifs that were heat-sealed onto sheer tops and dresses, and futuristic metallic dresses that were folded like origami.

3. David Koma

There is something fresh about Koma’s dresses which are so perfectly constructed. Waists featured peplums or fringes, while others were embellished with 3D beading or appeared painted with Polynesian tribal motifs in bold colours that stood out against the white or black background.

4. Erdem

Kate Middleton may love Erdem’s prints but so do I. For spring they came in cool shades of blue as picteresque cornflowers and marigolds made their way onto body con or off-the-shoulder dresses, and floating maxis that were elegant. It reminded me of a Van Gough painting.

Visual tricks  from (left to right): Mary Katrantzou, J.W Anderson, Jonathan Saunders and Giles

5. Giles

Giles Deacon put aside his dark fetishist look for autumn and embraced couture and lightness for spring. That being said, his vision was still futuristic as seen in the laser cut silver leather dresses and 3D swan prints. The fluid yet tailored white suit that opened the show was stunning.

6. J.W Anderson

Everyone is talking about J.W Anderson and I can see why. While his clothes may not appeal to everyone he deconstructs and rebuilds classics such as biker jackets (which this time morphed onto a classic men’s shirts with leather bindings) and askew cardigan  dresses made from cool fabrics such as laser-cut neoprene mesh and plastic.

7. Jonathan Saunders

I loved almost everything in Saunder’s latest collection from the Miami-inspired pastel palette to the the loose yet elegant separates including button-down shirts, pyjamas, full skirts and Mad Men dresses with faded prints.  

8. Mary Katrantzou

In a season where bold prints are such a big trend, London printer Katrantzou is in her element. Moving on from her constructed porcelain dresses of autumn, her silhouettes softened up with flowing dresses and knitwear decorated with abstract prints that were museum-worthy and that featured everything from tropical fish to metal.

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