On The Runway

New York, New York

Catwalk looks from (left to right): Altuzarra, Diane Von Furstenberg, Calvin Klein and Narciso Rodriguez

While London Fashion Week is already in full swing (I hope you caught our live stream of the Burberry Prorsum show – who else loved the African-inspired wedges,  striped trenches and colourful geometric patterns?), I think its worth mentioning a few favourites and top trends that came out of New York last week. So without further adieu let’s start with…

1. 3.1 Phillip Lim

Since when did Phillip Lim become the King of chic minimalism? His luxe basics were light and airy – loose trousers, tunics with flaps that are worn loose or tied together and racerback tanks. Everything had a slouchy, sporty vibe and the sorbet palette of lilac and orange was beautiful.  I’ll be investing in one of cropped woven jackets which will pull together any outfit next spring.

2. Altuzarra

Joseph Altuzarra must be a genius if he can mix tropical Hawaiian prints with black leather and streetwear, and still make it look cool. Sporty influences combined with prints on must-have pieces such as white leather dress with a floral panel on the front, nylon parkas and flared skirts. Edgy-meets-kitsch with success!

3. Calvin Klein

I have always been a fan of Francisco Costa because he’s stayed true to his minimalist DNA from the beginning. For spring, he softened things up by moving away from architectural tailoring and focusing on long, sheer slip dresses with built in bras and straps, curved seams and soft pleats. Colours included light vanilla, soft pink and orange. It was beautifully effortless – even the culottes (yes culottes!) 

4. Diane Von Furstenberg

I am pleased to report that DVF has moved on from her wrap dresses and onto chic, pulled together silhouettes that look new and modern. There were dresses with dropped waists, draped tops, cropped trousers and plenty of prints including a gorgeous understated Japanese floral print.

5. Marc Jacobs

Jacobs went all Bob Fossey with glossy drop waist dresses and bunched up or ruffled skirts made from cellophane organza, sequins, tinsel, fake crocodile, clear plastic and film. While some of the shapes were familiar (sporty sweatshirts, anyone?) dimension was added through contrasting textures and shapes. Oh and a little bit of razzmatazz!

More looks from (left to right): Marc Jacobs, Prabal Gurung, Proenza Schouler and Phillip Lim.

6. Proenza Schouler

The PS boys went tropical with a dash of retro 1950s with short suits, modest dresses, buttoned collared shirts and flared skirts in eel skin and laminated woven raffia. The finale of stunning tropical dresses were made from net embroidered with silk and rhinestones. Everything was accessorized with cool boxy camera bags – move over PS1.

7. Prabul Gurung

New York’s new fashion darling based his collection on a unique floral print that he developed with a British print designer – it was intricate yet raw. It appeared on dresses and suits, but the real highlights were the more edgy styles one wouldn’t expect such as the handpainted latex coat in purple and white, and handcut leather shirts with mesh lining.

8. Narciso Rodriguez

Rodriguez also broke away from his usual minimalsm and featured long, sheer dresses made up of geometric shapes or patchworks of sheer and opaque fabrics and blocks of colour. The look continued on long shirtdresses with assymetrical hems. If there’s one dress you have to own, it should be from him.

9. Victoria Beckham

I admit it, I am a Posh fan and I secretly long to own one of her sexy hourglass dresses or long, chic tailored maxis. For her first runway show she went for couture-inspired cocoon and boxy jackets with a sportswear vibe. The Mod style dresses were fun and her body hugging styles were updated with funky utility straps.   

10. Zero Maria Cornejo

It was all about urban androgony at Maria Cornejo. The Chilean deisgner created a tougher look with a silhouette that was cut closer to the body, but still fluid. What really stood out were her prints which were taken from photographs she took of indiginous art at a museum in Paris.

Trend checklist:

Neons (especially orange), pastels (on trousers), below-the-knee lengths and asymmetric hems, tropical or floral prints and drawstring dresses.

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