On The Runway

Best of New York: Autumn/Winter 2012 (Part 1)

Runway looks from (left to right): Altuzarra, Alexander Wang, Diane Von Furstenberg and Victoria Beckham

While Paris is all about boundless creativity, New York designers always manage to whip up clothes you can wear. Here is the lo-down on our favourite autumn/winter runway shows that have happened so far.

3.1 Phillip Lim
The jist: The power woman turned modern superhero
Highlights: Tailored pieces came covered in monochromatic graphic shapes and lines, so for example, black trousers, tight dresses and shirts have thick outlines in contrasting white. The story continued on colourblock knits in blue, while other separates featured patchworks of different fabrics and textures
Must-haves: Wraparound collarless coats and jackets

Alexander Wang
The jist: After dark with plenty of shine
Highlights: High-gloss custom fabrics and stiff black leather on biker jackets, military coats, tops with rounded shoulders and trousers. Tweed was laminated to create texture. For the evening there were punky fringed dresses inspired by shaved fur
Must-have pieces: The layered turtlenecks and dresses with bunched up sheer sleeves

Altuzarra
The jist: French military tailoring with ethnic touches
Highlights: A beautiful mish-mash of military coats and velvet jackets layered on top of embellished jodhpurs and chunky knits with tapestry motifs. A military A-line skirt was matched with a preppy V-neck sweater with colourful pom poms for an ethnic take on the Parisian look. Loved it all!
Must-have pieces: Anything with the Moroccan coin details

Diane Von Furstenberg
The jist: The French seductress
Highlights: Prints were quirky (hands and puzzle pieces for example) but looked sexy when paired with items such as a leather skirt. Colour blocking takes on an elegant vibe with separates such as a draped turtleneck and high waist pencil skirt. The wrap dress comes in a draped version any woman would love
Must-have pieces: Any of the evening gowns and red dresses

Runway looks from (left to right): Donna Karan, 3.1 Phillip Lim, Prabal Gurung, Marc Jacobs

Donna Karan
The jist: Mannish tailoring with a feminine twist
Highlights: Pinstripe suits with nipped in waists added a Victorian feel to the show. They later morphed into beautifully tailored dresses (a red style came with a chic lapel). For the evening, a black satin tuxedo with tails is the perfect balance of masculine and feminine
Must-have pieces: One of the pinstripe dresses

Marc Jacobs
The jist: Victoriana goes bling (apparently inspired by Anna Piaggi)
Highlights: Jacobs played with oversized proportions to the extreme with Victorian style jackets buttoned over long and large bell-shaped skirts and dresses.  Separates came covered in everything from holographic embellishments to paisley and doodle prints. There were way too many accessories – furry hats, large scarves, pilgrim-buckle shoes but that was part of the fun
Must-have pieces: Jackets and tops with built in scarf ties

Prabal Gurung
The jist: Devils and angels, with a techno fashion twist
Highlights: The dark and lean pieces that opened the show had a luxe rock chick vibe and later came accented with hologram fabric. Digital prints included Georgia O’Keefe skulls and Japanese blue roses on rounded silhouettes. The evening wear was a bit too Vegas with feathers and gold foil embellishments.
Must-have pieces: The black dresses with sheer panels

Victoria Beckham
The jist: Ladylike with a sporty edge
Highlights: If it ain’t broke, don’t fix it. Beckham played with the same silhouette – long, tight-lean but added sporty touches from stripes and military pockets to polo shirt collars in contrasting colours. Shorter styles came with flared skirts (cheerleader style) and double wrap belts for a fun look.
Must-have pieces: Any of the khaki dresses

One Response to Best of New York: Autumn/Winter 2012 (Part 1)

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