On The Runway

New York Goes Large for Autumn/Winter 2012

Looks from (left to right): Ralph Lauren, Michael Kors, Calvin Klein and Proenza Schouler

The New York shows ended last week with tops trends including oversized volumes (to hide those extra winter pounds no doubt), military tailoring, sheer fabrics, monochromatic prints and more leather than fur.  As for colours, it was all about red. Here is a roundup of the final few shows…

Calvin Klein
The jist: Minimalism meets hourglass curves
Highlights: Francisco Costa continues to experiment with fabrics – bonded leather and pebbled wool for example – although the hourglass silhouette with padded hips and longer length was new. Splashes of colour brightened up his signature monochromatic palette
Must-have pieces: Leather skirts and brushed metal belts

Michael Kors
The jist: The Great Outdoors via Aspen
Highlights: There is never just one theme in a Kors shows because he creates looks for almost any occasion. His daytime combos mixed red tartan ponchos, tweed dresses and lace, while sequin low-waist gowns was his choice of eveningwear. Top everything off with more fur than you will ever need or wear
Must-have pieces: The chic cable knits

Proenza Schouler
The jist: Oversized silhouettes with a Japanese influence
Highlights: Oversized jackets flopped open with diagonal zips and were paired with wide-legged trousers for an interesting silhouette. Artisanal touches could be seen in the woven leather jackets and tops, quilted satin and constructed brocade pieces
Must-have pieces: Low-slung trousers and lattice weave jackets and shirts

Ralph Lauren
The jist: The British aristocrat
Highlights: Like everyone else, Ralph Lauren has Downton Abbey fever. Polished tartan, tweed jackets and velvet suits evoked weekends at a British countryside estate. For the evening, he sent out classic long black gowns accented with chunky jewelled necklaces or a black and gold feather bolero
Must-have pieces: Any of the black and gold evening pieces

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