For some reason the Milan shows felt very uninspiring save from a few standouts. Following on from New York and London, designers continued to lighten things up in terms of fabric, execution and colours. Florals, stripes and collaging were top trends. Here are my top shows.
It was all about understated elegance at Bottega as 1940s-inspired dresses were taken to new heights. Modern knee-length styles came decorated with florals and studded snakeskin trims to add a luxe edge. Invest in any of the black dresses because they will be in your wardrobes forever.
Dolce & Gabbana
You can always count on D&G for an indulgent celebration of all things Italian. This time the clothes were covered in Sicilian prints from knights in armour to scenes from street fairs. Stripes added a summery feel. The highlight was of course the jewels including the colourful raffia earrings.
Bold and bright at (from left to right): Gucci, Dolce & Gabbana, Gucci and Dolce & Gabbana
There was a definite 1970s Jackie O vibe in Frida Giannini’s clean silhouettes for spring (her take on the trouser/tunic combo is my favourite this season so far). Everything came in bold blocks of colour from red and green to electric blue, while flourishes of ruffles and colourful, elaborate jewels added a feminine touch.
Jil Sander’s minimalist take on fashion is everywhere right now so expectations were running high for her to deliver something new. While her signature clean lines remained she played a bit more with subtle volumes, whether it was on the hips or on the sleeves of a jacket. It was a good start but I’m hoping for more next season.
Dark romance from (left to right): Prada, Bottega Veneta, Prada and Bottega Veneta
I usually dismiss Marni as a little kooky but I loved the fresh silhouettes and her new play on proportions. 2D shorts, tent shaped tops and v-neck tailored tunics appeared crisp and light. Prints, when they were included, were a feat of technical mastery- checks were actually made up of layered ribbons.
Harajuku girls get the Mrs. P treatment with an edgy yet sweet collection of stiff satin collared tops, shorts and shift dresses decorated with single graphic flowers. Later they became more plentiful, printed on fur or as huge corsages decorating pink and green satin kimono-inspired separates. Flowers have never looked so fresh.