Ear cuffs with diamonds
For decades the jewellery world has been dominated by the established maisons of Place Vendome in Paris, but recently we have seen the rise of a new generation of jewellers who are challenging the big guns with their cutting edge designs, materials and techniques. These trailblazers are anything but establishment and therein lies their appeal.
One of my favourites is Gaia Repossi. Much like her counterpart, Delfina Delettrez, she comes from a big fashion family – her grandparents founded the prestigious Maison Repossi in Paris in 1925. But that’s where the comparisons stop.
Gaia Repossi (above)
Initially she had little interest in joining the family business, preferring to study art and anthropology at the Sorbonne in Paris. At the age of 20 she gave in and later became creative director of the House of Repossi in 2007. Since then she has become a favourite with editors thanks to her minimalist designs and cool collaborations with the likes of Alexander Wang and Joseph Altuzarra.
“I tend to break the rules of what is nowadays expected in my field. I try to bring an imaginary dimension and a renewal in the designs that should appeal the future generations,” she says.
Repossi’s designs are based around the body. She works like a sculptor, focusing on the architecture of her pieces, while using materials such as gold and diamonds to add contrast and volume. Ancient and tribal cultures inspire many of her minimalist rings, cuffs and chokers so they have quite an edgy look.
Berbere cuff (left) and ring (right)
Some of her most iconic creations include her ear cuffs that trace the entire ear and the Berbere knuckle duster rings set with everything from turquoise to black diamonds. Her latest, Art Nouveau, features laser cut gold with a complex pattern that represents a tree’s branches viewed from above.
“My goal is to bring this couture feeling of jewellery closer to the street and to create desire among an audience that felt it was more modern to wear nothing at all,” she says.