Top looks by (from left to right): J. Mendel, Marc Jacobs, Michael Kors
Designers in New York must have been feeling the bitter cold in their ateliers this season, because Autumn/Winter 2015 is awash with sombre colours like brown and grey, with many designers opting for black exclusively (see Alexander Wang). It wasn’t all gloom and doom as we also spotted plenty of metallic and sequinned evening looks, while red was a popular choice for dresses. Fringe, the 1970s and sheer panelling crossed over from spring, so these are trends to invest in now.
Here’s our pick of the top 10 looks from the runways.
J. Mendel – Look 22
Gilles Mendel had a lot on offer this season and like Rodarte, the disco era was on full display, with plunging necklines, longthin scarves, halters, high-waists and higher slits. Yet it’s Look 22, with its paisley print, fringed panel and slightly louche silhouette, that we want for our closets.
Marc Jacobs – Look 39
Iconic fashion editor Diana Vreeland was a touchstone for Marc Jacobs this season. Her more-is-more aesthetic is an easy pitfall for any designer, but it was made instantly modern through Jacobs’ eyes. The most swoon-worthy pieces were the textured sequinned column gowns, particularly Look 39’s swirly, sleeved version.
Michael Kors – Look 24
The king of American sportswear took us on two trips this season, one masculine and one feminine, but the collection was 100 per cent Kors. Since we highlighted his pretty floral pieces last season, the menswear inspired looks felt especially fresh. Look 24 touched on many of the trends coming out of NYC – checks, fur (and fur as a sash), shirting, belted outerwear and monochrome layers.
(From left to right): Oscar de la Renta, Proenza Schouler, Prabal Gurung
Oscar de la Renta – Look 37
We would be remiss if we did not mention one of the most highly anticipated collections of the New York season as designer Peter Copping made his debut at Oscar de la Renta. The collection retained all the polish that Oscar’s ladies prefer, particularly in skirt sets and ruffle neck blouses, though there were enough flirty frocks to keep the younger girls interested. A look both generations will love? Number 37.
Proenza Schouler – Look 23
Despite Proenza Schouler’s emphasis on artisan-produced fabrications and treatments, their creations never appear crafty. Look 23’s long-on-long proportions feel very now, and the slashed sweater top could easily be worn over leather trousers for the less adventurous.
Prabal Gurung – Look 21
Prabal’s take on New York’s ubiquitous red dress was our favourite and included a healthy dose of sex appeal and confidence. Pleating and a wrap closures have continued on for spring, and we love Look 21’s super wide and deep V dress.
(From left to right): Thakoon, Tome, Tom Ford, Tory Burch
Thakoon – Look 13
Burnt ochre, aquamarine and a range of reds brought Thakoon’s runway to life. The collection’s new proportions were best exhibited when vivid bohemian dresses met menswear shirting elements, as seen in Look 13 which features a cool cut-out exposing the shoulders. A shearling sash and faux lace up leather wedge (a shape that is big for spring as well) boots will be sought-after accessories.
Tome – Look 4
It isn’t every day that a brand notes another living, working designer as inspiration but the brave boys of Tome did just that, citing Donna Karan. Like their muse, Ryan Lobo and Ramon Martin made clothes that were inherently wearable. Every piece in Look 4 is sure to coordinate with the average woman’s current wardrobe, adding some nice new textures and layers.
Tom Ford – Look 38
With Tom Ford shows, there are no rules (so much so that it was held in Los Angeles rather than London). His jet black knot and fringe necklaces and earrings are worth a mention alone, but Look 38’s nonchalant glamour was a standout, in line with the new bohemian evening movement.
Tory Burch – Look 31
Despite being known as an Upper East Side lady, Tory Burch has always done ethnic better than anyone. This collection was straight out of the souk, yet its kilims and kaftans were super accessible. Look 31 is so easy to wear that even a novice could style it – the fringed cuffs provide enough ornamentation to forgo jewellery altogether and everyone should already have a pair of neutral boots in their closet.
By Lucia Tait Tolani