Gucci spring/summer 2016
Milan is hot again. It took a while but the stars have aligned thanks to the renaissance of Gucci and the influx of fresh talent at houses like Pucci and Cavalli and designers like Damir Doma (who moved from Paris), Arthur Arbesser and Uma Wang. Here are our top shows of the week.
It’s official – Alessandro Michele is the new darling of Milan. In just a year he has transformed Gucci from a dying brand into a must-have for every fashionista with its Geek chic aesthetic that’s part vintage, part masculine/feminine, part modern boho. This season he took this aesthetic and elevated it with some incredible craftsmanship as evidenced by the colourful pleated chiffon and jacquard dresses, graffiti suits, rosettes, sequinned ruffles and rhinestone crusted glasses. It was all piled on, and we loved it.
(Left) Dolce & Gabbana (right) Prada
Apparently Miuccia Prada wanted to explore notions of femininity and conservatism with her spring collection. Delve deep and you will see it, but even if you are judging it on face value, it’s still equally covetable. Forget trousers because it was all about the classic skirt suit which was turned on its head with pyjama detailing, contrasting fabric panels or a mish mash of prints. Later they were sheer, or reinvisaged in eelskin stripes and accessorised with antique veils. If those don’t work the sheer organza dresses covered in pailettes are also winners.
Dolce & Gabbana
No matter what theme they choose each season, Dolce & Gabbana know how to stir emotion with their collections. This time they explored glorious Italy post WW2– cue dresses printed with vintage postcards and posters, tees printed with the words I Love Italy and striped skirts that paid tribute to Portofino. When you had enough of the Viva Italia there were the updated classics Dolce is known from – gorgeous floral dresses, lemon earrings and black lace skirts and lingerie inspired tops.
(Left) Versace (right) Tods
Who would have thought Donatella Versace, the queen of excess and molto sexy, would turn out such a cool collection this season? The Versace woman is ready to take on the world in military inspired gear including tailored jackets worn over tiny shorts and a bold neon green camouflage print. Later it was mixedin with other animal prints on mini dresses. Her talent really shone in simpler pieces such as the tailored khaki suit. Die hard fans won’t be disappointed with her thigh baring cocktail dresses either.
Ever since Alessandra Fachinetti started designing Tod’s ready to wear she has built a solid foundation of timeless classics that emphasise the brand’s values of craftsmanship and heritage. While this made for some incredibly sophisticated clothes, they somehow lacked newness. For spring she pushed the boat and sent out a band of rockers in striped paperbag trousers with patchwork pockets, studded and preforated skirts, leather blousons, and monochrome vinyl record prints, all accessorised with scarves tied around the neck. While the look veered on tomboyish she also incorporated feminine details whether it was through colours (soft pink) or silhouettes. More importantly it still looked luxurious.