Looks by (from left to right): Celine and Loewe
Loewe is the go-to brand for art lovers
There’s a reason why J.W Anderson’s name has been bandied about every time an opening happens at a major fashion house. He has proven that he is a real talent and for spring he continued to refine the Loewe woman, although this season silhouettes are looser with controlled volumes. There was more of an artsy, “undone” vibe to the collection with details such as raw hems, patchwork and fringing while fabrics were all about tactile textures from tweed to linen. His jewels were art pieces in themselves and included sculptural gold pieces that wouldn’t look out of place in an art gallery.
Phoebe Philo has gone all feminine
“I want to show that our bodies are bound the world whether we like it or not,” said the Celine show notes. This season Phoebe Philo celebrated the feminine form with plenty of colour (from light blue to magenta), draped silhouettes and feminine details , with favourites including the long printed skirts and white dresses artfully decorated with Yves Klein blue brush strokes. All the Celine icons were also there including boxy jackets which featured cut outs and twisted fabric at the back, pleated skirts and two-tone shirt dresses. The accessories of course will be defining from her mismatched shoes and pearl earrings to the elegant, granny inspired top handle bags.
Looks by (from left to right): Dior and Valentino
Dior Took To The Street
Paris is all about debuts including Antony Vacarello at Saint Laurent and Bouchra Jarrar at Lanvin, but the one everyone was talking about was ex-Valentino designer Maria Grazia Chiuri at Dior. As the first woman to helm the fashion house expectations were high (plus she only had six weeks to create the collection). The show held plenty of promise and opened with several minimalist, monochrome looks inspired by fencing complete with padded jackets decorated with industrial buckles. Later on she incorporated elements of streetwear from T-shirts scribbled with “We Should All Be Feminists” and jumpers matched with long sheer skirts, to the sporty white and black trims and straps spelling out the words Christian Dior or J’Adior (a throwback to Galliano’s era at the house). At times the collection did venture into familiar territory she previously explored at Valentino but when she did play with the house’s codes such as the iconic bar jacket the results were encouraging – hopefully there will be more of that moving forward.
Unlike Grazia Chuiri, Pierpaolo Piccioli wasn’t under as much pressure for his solo debut at the Valentino and it showed. It was one of the week’s best collections as he continued to build the codes that have made the house a billion-dollar success. Valentino’s main strength are its incredible ateliers and their talents were showcased in a range of softer and more ethereal looks as the high necked lace embroidered dresses and fluid gowns covered in magical swallow prints, a collaboration with British printer Zandra Rhodes. The more simple looks such as a red pleated dress that hung onto the body with multiple thin straps across the shoulders were arresting in their simplicity. As for the accessories – there wasn’t a stud in sight save for the lipstick cases slung across the body.
The trends keep on coming
The exposed shoulder is still going strong as seen at Chloe, as well as pyjamas which are everywhere on the streets and catwalks (Lanvin’s striped versions were particularly chic). In terms of silhouette, oversized masculine jackets are getting bigger as seen at Masha Ma and Balenciaga although there are still plenty of short and sexy dresses (that expose a boob or two) as seen at Saint Laurent. Colours are bright and beautiful with painterly touches everywhere. When it comes to shoes flats still reign with ballerina inspired lace ups and rounded toes.