While I was in Europe, the spring/summer 12 men’s wear shows were going on in Milan and Paris. I didn’t get a chance to attend them, but here is an overview of some of the top trends. Probably the biggest criticism this season was the fact the clothes lacked fun and were too commercial. That being said designers tried to come up with new and innovative ways to wear classics such as the double breasted jacket. I leave it to you to decide. Guys, get ready to take some notes!
Tartan was bold and brash this season. Bottega Veneta’s checks were given a dizzying look in colours such as khaki and blue, while Etro featured bright, mismatched colours and prints. Prada and Comme des Garcons went for micro checks and Raf Simons’ were diagonal. Plain jackets were often matched with checked trousers or vice versa, as seen at Gucci.
From neutrals such as white and khaki at Ferragamo and Armani to bold colours, there was plenty on offer. Top shades include mustard, orange and indigo blue.
Cropped trousers offered a cool alternative for summer with a less stuffy look. Burberry Prorsum’s were worn with a casual jacket, Yves Saint Laurent’s came as part of a double breasted suit while Lanvin featured them with a matching shirt and contrasting tie. Others rolled their trousers at the hem.
Things are loosening up with unlined jackets, voluminous trousers and crumpled fabrics. Lanvin and Alexander McQueen played with pyjama-esque silhouettes with dropped crotches. Instead of structured jackets, designers like Vivienne Westwood and Dries Van Noten proposed shirt/jacket hybrids that looked easy.
Boys who like girls
There was a lot of gender play, with items such as skirts cropping up in collections of Givenchy, Yohji Yamamoto and Comme des Garcons. Corset lace up detailing was everywhere at Yves Saint Laurent.
Forget juicy fruits for women, wacky prints included Birds of Paradise, colourful tribal prints, exaggerated stripes and Prada’s florals and cartoon prints.
Love it or hate it, this 80s fabric is back. Luckily designers created wearable styles including layered shorts and textured trousers at Dolce & Gabbana and polo shirts at ZZegna. Holey knitwear were also spotted at Jil Sander and Calvin Klein.