Looks from Alexander Wang (left) and Joseph Altuzarra (right)
God are we already looking at spring/summer 2013? As you know, New York Fashion Week kicked off on September 6th, starting a month long pilgrimage for fashion editors and buyers across the globe. As usual the city showed its strength in sportswear and contemporary (with stalwarts like Tory Burch and DVF leading the pack) but there were also several trends that emerged that I think will continue to develop in the other cities. There was definitely an erotic undertone (see Phillip Lim’s see through clothes and Marc Jacobs bare midriffs and hips) while stripes, transparency, slicing and dicing also popped up. Here are my top 10 shows of the week.
1. Alexander Wang
Ok so what Mr. Wang does isn’t exactly groundbreaking but he really has a knack for knowing what’s cool and what will appeal to hipsters. Black and white leather tunics and tank dresses in minimalist shapes were sliced to reveal skin underneath.
2. Joseph Altuzarra
Altuzarra has been on my to watch list for a while especially after those gorgeous military coats from last season. Washed fabric was fashioned into skirts with faux pockets and shirts with a smattering of crystals (I want!) Outerwear was draped across the shoulders while his printed trousers were simply divine.
Calvin Klein Collection (left) and Louise Goldin (right)
3. Calvin Klein Collection
I am a minimalist so Calvin Klein speaks to me on so many levels (the entire collection was done in black, white and nude with graphic elements like wavy lines). Because Francisco Costa’s silhouettes are so simple – this time round it was about thin belts at the waist and peplums – he went all out with gorgeous fabrics.
4. Louise Goldin
After a two year hiatus, this Brit designer has decamped across the pond and it seems to have worked in her favour. It was about sporty colour block knits and dresses, with metallic accents that added a cool edge.
5. Marc Jacobs
Easily the winner of the week. Read more about it here along with my interview with the designer.
Narciso Rodriguez (left) and Proenza Schouler (right)
6. Narciso Rodriguez
Rodriguez got sexy this season with body skimming jackets and loose shirts sliced all the way down to the navel – to sum it up it was effortlessly sexy. Colours as usual were his forte with bright coral slipdresses that left me wanting more.
7. Proenza Schouler
Patchwork and collaging was the key theme, first with fabrics (including python) then with clashing prints, which were patchworked together on the same dress with stunning results (apparently they were inspired by a Tumblr page). The perforated leather red coats are a must-have.
(From left to right): Rodarte, Zero + Maria Cornejo, Victoria Beckham and Proenza Schouler
Guess who’s back? The Rodarte sisters are back on form this season and even though their clothes may not be the most wearable, they brought back the much needed drama that put them on the style map in the first place. It was all very Hunger Games with Cinna style flames, fringed leather jackets and draped chain belts and skirts.
9. Zero + Maria Cornejo
I own so many pieces from Maria Cornejo and this season reminded me why. From her effortless white gauzy dresses (perfect for summer) to her tailored pieces updated with zips, graphic prints from her iphone and scuba material, she knows how to create edgy classics that are flattering.
10. Victoria Beckham
Posh may be making her millions on her skintight Roland Mouret sheaths but it was nice to see her experiment with real clothes like silk blouses and loose trousers. When she did venture back into familiar territory it was super sexy with geometric cut outs and see through panels that reminded me of lingerie.