Print jacket and shorts (left) and loose arms dress (right) from Nuit Comme Oui’s spring/summer 2013 collection
If you are a regular reader of this blog then you probably share my passion for Scandinavian designers. There is something about the clean, minimalist lines of their designs that make their clothes so modern and wearable, yet classic.
My latest find is Danish label Nuit Comme Oui. If you are after a brand that screams the latest trends then this isn’t for you. If you are intrigued by the more technical aspect of fashion, from draping (a la Balenciaga) to construction, then read on.
Based in Copenhagen, Nuit Comme Oui was founded in in 2009 by Natasja Qvitzau Lund. Unlike most designers who work with patterns, Natasja’s concept is based on the art of Origami. As such most of her pieces begin as paper models before they are reinterpreted into draped silhouettes made using a mixture of cotton and washed silk.
“I wanted to have a concept but at the same time I wanted clothes that would fit everyone and that were comfortable,” Natasja told me when we met.
“As a rule I don’t use any zippers or buttons. Most of my designs are made using one piece of fabric. Even if they have pockets they cannot be made using a separate piece of material,” she says.
Windy short jacket and sleeveless dress (left) and backstring top and wing jacket (right)
The result is a collection that is subtle, understated and free of details such as hardware so that the silhouettes really shine. Her spring/summer 2013 collection for example features a beige shift dress with slits at the armholes and at the back for a sexy yet understated look. The same technique is used on a black top so the sleeves billow when you walk. A cropped white jacket comes with sleeves made from layers of folded fabric for a chic yet quirky look. Many styles come with additional belts or ribbons made from the same fabric to create volume or the right amount of draping.
Also worth checking out are her prints. Every season Natasja creates her own digital prints which are usually based on a collage of personal photographs.
Interestingly, all 20 pieces in the collection come in one size only which usually spells disaster. However thanks to her skillful draping, each wearer can make each piece their own and inject her own sense of personality.
“I like the idea that each piece looks different on everybody. I want my wearers to be curious and creative. At the same time everything is so simple it’s not intimidating,” says Natasja.
Sometimes it’s the simple things in life.