(Left to right): Kenzo, Celine and Dior
Apologies for not blogging for a while but the Paris shows have kept me busy! Here is an overview of the big trends for next season, hot off the press. Next up, our favourite shows from the City of Lights!
It’s all about wearing your words on your sleeve this season. At Celine, Phoebe Philo sent out a surprising collection that brought to mind London street wear. Tribal brush strokes decorated her techno tops and body hugging skirts (they later appeared mixed with a newsprint). Kenzo’s message was to save our oceans with sweatshirts printed with statistics about fish while Dior’s skirts declared “hyperrealness in the daytime.”
(Left to right): Lanvin, Sonia Rykiel, Haider Ackermann and Saint Laurent Paris
Metallics are back! There was a definite 1980s theme going on at Saint Laurent where Hedi Slimane sent out rock chicks in glittery gold, red and black dresses. My favourite was a one shoulder top decorated with the Rive Gauche lip print in red sequins. At Lanvin it was a bit more 70s/David Bowie inspired but I loved the luxe colourful lame separates and the long hippy-style dresses. One gold dress reminded me of a chocolate wrapper. Lurex knits also dominated at Sonia Rykiel while Haider Ackermann’s trailing skirts and must-have jackets were also given the shine treatment in jewel tones and glittery fabrics.
(Left to right): Maison Martin Margiela, Dries Van Noten, Miu Miu and Louis Vuitton
Designers piled it on this season in new and unexpected ways. Badges covered jackets at Dior and Viktor & Rolf, while Margiela surprised us all with some Indian beadings and embroideries on their deconstructed silhouettes. Sequins ruled at Givenchy, while Louis Vuitton was all about dark decoration (in the form of jet beading) which covered sheer tulle and gorgeous evening gowns. Dries Van Noten is the king of embroidery so he sent out plenty of tassles and opulent gold. Fringing was another big trend from Celine’s bags to Miu Miu’s colourful beaded tassles which swung from dresses as the models took to the catwalk.
(Left to right): Alexander McQueen, Givenchy and Valentino
Sarah Burton at Alexander McQueen sent out tribal couture with women warriors dressed in bold checkerboard prints decorated with beads and ostrich feathers. The Valentino designers were inspired by a visit to the Roman Opera workshops but there was an ethnic vibe in the ornate geometric embroideries and gladiator skirts. At Givenchy Riccardo Tisci clashed Japan and Africa with a tribal collection that was more couture than street.
(Left to right): Chalayan, Sacai, Stella McCartney and Roland Mouret
Many designers pushed the envelope when it came to fabric innovation this season. Sacai is all about taking fabric to new heights so trousers came with perforated aertex while shredded cotton looked like feathers. At Chalayan dresses morphed from sculpted wool into flowing silk. Stella McCartney’s two-tone lace dresses were stunning to look at with their engineered combination of lace and silk. Roland Mouret’s striped dresses were collaged together with fabrics like mesh and cotton.
(Left to right): Chloe, Chanel and Balenciaga
Karl Lagerfeld was all about art at Chanel, where he referenced a German paint chart. A rainbow of colours were printed on dresses or injected into colourful knits. At Chloe there was something alluring in Claire Waight Keller’s safari inspired beiges and khakis, while Givenchy’s desert oranges and beiges were gorgeous. Celine was all about basics with primary colours (red, yellow and blue) while Alexander Wang chose light pinks and blues at Balenciaga.
And the shocks…
Marc Jacobs leaving Louis Vuitton after 16 spectacular years (many editors were teary eyed at the end of his show). Marco Zanini leaving Rochas and heading over to Schiaparelli. Plus there were coats in almost every collection (so much for global warming?)