Fashion Month kicked off last week in New York. The city that never sleeps set the stage for SS15 – trends as disparate as chokers, oversized florals, textured whites, lots of layering and fringe popped up, while cropped tops, leather (and lace), funky flats and print mixing continued.
Here are our highlights of the best.
Who else is excited for his upcoming Target collaboration? Back on the runway, he played with gingham, and starker striped looks. The artfully mismatched blouse and pencil skirt combos are top of our shopping list, although we won’t be styling them unbuttoned down to the navel. We loved the dresses, particularly a sheer, panelled cut-out gown and coordinating tuxedo jacket, both in black.
A girl could easily compose a full Spring wardrobe from Chadwick Bell alone. He focused on foundation dressing with a palette that was almost exclusively black and white (with a touch of nude, emerald and navy). Although the pieces were tailored, they maintained an alluring softness, as seen in the cropped dolman sleeve leather jacket. The pieces are intended to be mixed, matched and layered (an emerging trend this season). Without doubt, the obi belt will be worth the investment.
There is absolutely no question of designer Josep Delpozo’s couture skills, and his continued evolution will be worth watching. He has never shied away from colour, and bold kelly greens, daffodil and coral jumped off the geometric shapes that came down the runway. We swooned over the super-sized details (giant bows, origami-esque bows and flowers), most notably a blush and bubblegum strapless gown featuring an almost cameo like centerpiece. It may be in-your-face but the collection still captured the brand’s signature dreaminess.
Although the New York collections are renowned for a heavy street influence, we love to see Spring’s sunny side up. Kors’ collection was more cheerful than severe as classic blue Oxfords took on new life when paired with sheer skirts (a skirt which somehow managed to maintain it’s wispiness despite heavy sequin embroidery). Ginghams (yep, again) and plaid rounded out the collection, and a few monotone black looks were snuck in at the end, although they had a lightness all on their own.
Oscar de Renta
Leave it to Oscar de la Renta to make the crop top ladylike. Coordinating separates in lace and gingham were skin baring yet demure. He also offered black and white brogues which was unusual considering it was a primarily feminine collection. He did not forget his core audience though, and sent out plenty of beautiful dresses including a grouping of light and airy floral confections and off-the-shoulder gowns.
All you need to know about Proenza Schouler this season is fringe. The covetable collection is heavy on laser cut leather and python, and oozed an urban cool. We love the series of swoon-worthy cobalt, black and white/black houndstooth skirts and dresses with exaggerated fringe hems. Not to mention the accompanying clutches, which had the look of high-fashion anemones.
Everyone’s been buzzing about Rosie Assoulin and we can see why. Creating unique silhouettes via extreme proportions is the name of her game, and we want to play. This season, she expands her rainbow of colours even further, while adding an ingenious new fabric – raffia. Nineties references, such as a layered halter top and tee, will resonate with millennials while the bags, inspired by ceramicist Betty Woodward, are portable works of art that would look just as pretty on a shelf as on the wrist.
Was I the only one humming The Little Mermaid soundtrack under my breath after I saw Rodarte? I most certainly want to be part of the Mulleavy sisters’ world – a madcap sea-scape where anything goes together. It was a coming home, of sorts, after a few seasons of misses. Ruffles, sequins, lace netting, stripes, buckles, iridescents, fleurettes, leather, stars…where else could all these elements live together in harmony except on this runway?
It’s all about the uptown lady at Tome, although she managed to pull her look into next season with standout accessories, such as thick grosgrain belts and reverse flower studded chokers. The one-shouldered asymmetrical dresses will be easy mark for modern girls, while the pleated, lace and metallic ensembles are sure the please even the most cosmopolitan customer.
We so enjoyed seeing Thom Browne’s show. Achingly precise fits and elaborately innovative construction are his signatures, but it’s the mad hatter in his work that polarizes both the industry and the public. Oversized floral motifs, interpreted on seersucker, plaid and classic black, stuck a very wearable chord. As for the hats, who else could match the wild wit of Browne other than Stephen Jones? From literal (mini suits, badminton shuttlecocks) to exaggerated classics (turbans), it was a feast for the eyes.
There was a monk (monkette?) like quality to The Row’s show. From rich gold and deep navy to clean white, the mostly monochrome looks exhibited a cohesive ease of wear, aided by Birk-esque slides. We loved the cross body bags, a style which has popped up on many runways. If we weren’t before, we have been fully converted to the Olsen’s religion of minimalism.
The success of Tory Burch’s empire often eclipses the fact that she is, in reality, a good designer. Her strength has always been reinventing the ethnic and exotic into polished, price-conscious pieces that appeal to everyone. Spring’s collection, inspired by Picasso’s muse and French artist Francoise Gilot, had a wonderfully eclectic, hand-crafted feeling. The mid-calf length, seen on shift dresses and skirt sets, denoted a worldly confidence.
New York transplant Lucia Tait Tolani is a writer, stylist and brand consultant with a decade’s worth of experience in the fashion and lifestyle industry. Visit her blog on www.luciataittolani.com.