Victoriana at (from left to right): Altuzarra, McQueen and Marc Jacobs
After a long break we are back! What better way to ring in the new season than with a cheatsheet on the new season’s top trends?
One thing everyone needs to know about fall is that minimalism is out! Designers finally decided to flex their creative muscles with innovative yet desirable pieces that you will want to keep forever not because they are classic, but because they are fresh and unexpected. So without further adieu here are the top looks you will be wearing this month…
The New Victorian
19th century Victoriana is given a 21st century overhaul this season, complete with lace, frills and black. Riccardo Tisci led the way at Givenchy where he clashed classic Victoriana with modern Mexicana by way of California. Thom Browne also proposed his own version of 19th century glamour with long embellished coats and floor length skirts. At Alexander McQueen high-necked tiered dresses were made from sheer organza and came covered in red rosettes and cascades of petals for a more romantic take on the trend.
The easiest way to work the look is to invest in a frilled collar blouse (try Sonia Rykiel or Altuzarra) and pair it with a maxi skirts, as seen at Marc Jacobs. And while black lace is the fabric of choice, opt for sexier shades such as red and purple, as seen at Erdem. Just remember to leave the dark lips and period drama hair at home.
(From left to right): Giambattista Valli, Chloe and Burberry
Everyone has been flirting with the 1970s for a while from Nicholas Ghesquiere at Louis Vuitton to Claire Waight Keller at Chloe. This season looks vary, from folksy, hippie chic to uptown glamour, as proposed by Diane Von Furstenberg in New York who sent out her infamous wrap dress (a 1970s favourite) in black and white. In London Christopher Bailey created a funloving collection of patchwork, patterns and prints featuring fringed capes, crochet inserts on coats and floral printed smocks.
Fleetwood Mac’s Stevie Knicks was the ideal muse for Chloe’s collection of pleated velvet dresses, sheer maxis paired with waistcoats and corduroy dungaree, accessorised with trailing neck scarves.
If there’s one 1970s relic that you must own it’s a pair of flares. Make it modern by matching it with a long tunic as seen at Giambattista Valli. Go for a solid colour and steer clear of psychedelic prints. Patchwork capes and ponchos are also fun to experiment with because they are so versatile. Round off your closests with a Mod-style dress in super soft leather.
(From left to right): Balmain, Saint Laurent and JW Anderson
The Club Kids
If you are not a 1970s girl don’t fret, there’s always the following decade to choose from! While many designers focused on the exaggerated 80s silhouettes (Balmain’s one shoulder dresses were a case in point), others paid homage to those styling details that make you cringe and smile at the same time.
J.W Anderson for example sent out mod Club kids wearing colour block knits and geometric earrings while Bottega Veneta’s dresses came with shoulder pads and in electric shades of blue and green. Pleated lame skirts and dresses were another popular look as popularised by Gucci, Christopher Kane and Loewe, where they were paired with leather tops.
Punk, another 80s favourite, also made a comeback at Saint Laurent as models stalked the catwalks in ripped leggings and 1980s prom style dresses including a pink tutu that brought to mind 1980s film Pretty in Pink. Although Balenciaga’s collection paid tribute to its founder’s couture shapes, many came accented with punky details such as grommets and staples. Sequinned dresses at Rodarte brought to mind 1980s TV show Solid Gold.
Perhaps the most modern rendition of 1980s chic appeared at Miu Miu where Miuccia Prada expertly styled her ruffled yoke blouses (Princess Diana style) with full printed skirts, crystal floral jewellery and patent shoes. That’s an 80s look we couldn’t mind copying.
(From left to right): Celine, Lanvin and Dior
Lets Talk About Sex
Sex was a hot topic this season both on and off the catwalks. At Gucci, Alessandro Michele blurred gender lines for his first collection and sent out women in masculine tailoring and men in ruffled blouses.
Things only continued to heat up in Paris. Alber Elbaz accessorised his conservative dresses at Lanvin with leather harnesses that fastened around the torso while McQueen’s cropped leather tops and bustier dresses bordered on S&M. A floor length black vinyl coat took centre stage at Maison Martin Margiela. The fabric reappeared again at Dior where Raf Simons created a collection inspired by animal instincts – cue laser-cut patent leather skirts, second-skin jumpsuits and thigh high vinyl boots.
The breasts were brought into focus at Celine as Phoebe Philo sent out knitted tops complete with Madonna style conical busts. Louis Vuitton and Stella McCartney showed peekaboo knits that revealed skin poking out from underneath.
In the real world it’s all about creating the right balance. Choose a skirt with a dangerously high slit (a la Altuzarra) or a corset to wear with tailored trousers. A lingerie-inspired slip dress will also prove indispensable and can be layered for a multitude of looks.
(From left to right): Dries Van Noten, Louis Vuitton, Valentino
Who cares about minimalism when maximalism rules? Designers piled it on this season, not just with layers but with embellishments too.
Simple silhouettes were amped up with metallic fabrics from lame to brocade. The latter was a popular choice for dresses at Stella McCartney – hers looked as though they were slipping off the shoulders – while Louis Vuitton’s silver rendition was almost futuristic.
Because there was so much bling on show, craftsmanship was also came into the spotlight. Chanel’s sequinned skirts resembled the tiled flooring of typical Parisian brasserie while Valentino showed off the workmanship of their ateliers with black gowns decorated in silver filigree embellishments depicting a nightscape. Dries Van Noten injected his drab military garb with peacock sequins, embroidered Chinoiserie dragons and 3D scarab-shaped paillettes.
Head to toe sequins were another popular look as seen at Nina Ricci and Marc Jacobs although Riccardo Tisci was crowned King of bling when he sent out models covered in face jewels and crystal nose rings.
While most women tend to reserve bling for the evening, it’s fun to incorporate some glitz into your daily wardrobe. It’s all about contrasts so pair a sequinned skirt with a polo neck a la Sonia Rykiel or throw on a brocade jacket for the day. Complete the look with costume jewellery and you are ready to shine.